Tips to Keeping a Successful Aquarium


A lot of people goes under stress regarding the first keeping and unable to properly take care of the fishes no matter what. You need to understand that it is not that a tough job to do and can be easily accomplished with the help of a few of the methods and points to be kept in mind. Keeping a fish aquarium or tank in your home can provide you with a lot of benefits that can prove to be great for both your health and happiness. But if you are keeping these fishes in your place It is extremely important for you to properly take care of them. You can always consult the expert regarding this matter also and take help from the internet whenever you want to but for the start, we are listing down some of the points in this article that can actually prove to be of great help to you. Following these points, you can be assured about the fish keeping and will never have to worry in this regard again.

Choosing Your Fish Wisely

If you are doing the fish keeping for the first time it is important for you to choose out the fish breeds or species wisely. A proper care should be put into researching about them and selecting them out on the basis of different features they have to offer. Also, make sure to keep the regression level in mind in order to see it or not they are a valid choice for me. If you are considering to keep two or more communities together it is essential that you have a knowledge about their compatibility level and if or not they will be able to survive in the same environment that is created in the aquarium. There are a lot of options available that you can choose out the of the fishes and find out which one to choose can be made easy by considering all the features that are mentioned above. You can easily by any of the fish either from the online or the offline pet stores as per your choice.

Choose the Right Size of Aquarium and Substrate

As we already mentioned that there is a huge number of Fish species available in the market that is why it is important for you to choose out the right aquarium or the fish tank for them. The various kind of fishes comes in various sizes and may require more and less space based on their needs. You are required to put this fact in mind while you are choosing out the right sized aquarium for them. Also, make sure to choose substrates that are going to be installed in the aquarium with the fishes properly and keeping in mind about the specific breeds of fishes that you have or are going to buy. Because some of the substrates might have the specific kind of fish are also some other fishes are known to damage any of the substrates. These points should be properly taken care of while choosing out the aquarium or the substrates for your fishes and providing them a home-like living environment.

How to Setup a Cichlid Fish Tank


There is a lot that you need to take care of if you are going to set up an aquarium. Each and every point should be properly paid attention towards in order to get all of it to be done properly. if you are willing to set up a cichlid tank, this article might prove to be of some help to you. The points that are mentioned down below will surely be able to help you and establish a cichlid tank. There are a lot of things listed down below that are helpful for you to take care of the cichlid species. This guide will provide you great help with the whole procedure and makes it so easy for you to take care of the fishes.

Follow the following steps:

  1. You are required to replace all the live plants in the aquarium with the plastic ones if you are deciding to keep the cichlid species. As these species have the habit of digging down and uprooting the plants and might end up destroying the real ones. that is why it is considerably more practical to keep the artificial plants.
  2. You are required to create the natural habitat for the betterment of the species, as this will allow the fishes to provide a natural environment to live in. the basic point and factors that you are required to pay attention towards and try to mimic are the setup, temperature, and the lighting facilities.
  3. Also, you are required to pay attention towards properly maintaining the pH level of the water according to the requirements for the cichlid fishes. Have the rock setups in the tank as these fishes are a little bit sensitive towards it and will love to have these kinds of decorations in the tank.
  4. Cichlid fishes are quite sociable and do not like to live alone, that is why you are required to have more than two fishes in order to keep them engaged and happy. At least three or more fishes in a group can easily survive in there without getting bored.
  5. Pay well attention when you are thinking of fixing up these species of fishes with the other ones. They are quite aggressive in nature and might as well harm the other species inside the tank. You need to properly check these things when buying out the cichlid species and thinking of putting them in the same tank as the other present fish species.
  6. If you are thinking of breeding these fishes you should be very careful and make sure to properly know about this procedure. Also, pay attention towards the fact that the female cichlid fishes are well fed and kept healthy in order to be able to breed. Also, it is important for you to provide them the little food during the breeding periods.
  7. You should know the proper manner to feed them, though it is not that hard to feed these fishes still you are required to know a little bit about it.

Maintaining Your Aquarium


Many people assume that an aquarium is, for the most part, a self-sufficient entity that requires little human intervention. In the case of special freshwater aquariums this is sometimes close to true, but for the most part, aquariums require constant care. Some of you may realize that you must do water changes, etc., but are not really sure what the proper amount to change is. Others may wonder how often you should do aquarium clean-ups. The frequency of what you must do varies greatly depending on the contents and structure of your aquarium.

Let’s start with water changes. Unless you are simply adding water to account for evaporation, water changes should be done using a gravel vacuum. This is much like killing two birds with one stone. A gravel vacuum is designed to remove debris and nitrate from the aquarium floor. At the same time, it siphons up the water in the aquarium allowing for the addition of new water.

aquarium-maintenanceHow much water should I change in my aquarium?

Typically one does about a 10 percent to 15 percent water change. They should be done about every two to four weeks. Many would like to say that you must do them every other week no matter what, but I am a person of reality, and it is simply too hard sometimes to dedicate this much time to your aquarium. I almost hate to say it, but in many cases you can do a water change about every month if you change 20 percent of the water. Please realize that this will cause a greater risk of algae growth and biological disruption in your aquarium, but you shouldn’t run into any major problems. In the case of freshwater aquariums, you are going to want to add a bit of water dechlorinator to condition the water before pouring into your aquarium.

Let’s also mention that you should take care when adding new water back to the aquarium. The fish are already a little uneasy about the gravel vacuuming, so you want to reduce the stress that you put on the aquarium inhabitants when you replace the water. Simply add the water slowly over a few minutes rather than dumping it all in at once (this will also help since the new water is usually not at the same temperature as that in the aquarium). For those of you with saltwater aquariums, make sure that you mix your saltwater solution and check the salinity. When adding water to account for evaporation, you should add freshwater since the salt does not evaporate, but when you have removed water using the gravel vacuum, you will want to add saltwater. It is also a good idea to check the aquarium salinity so that you can try and compensate for any deviation from the desired value when adding new water to the aquarium.

Clean Your Filter Media Correctly

Filter media cleaning is also a necessary part of aquarium maintenance. A good time to clean the filters in your filtration device is during the water changes. An important note that is often not known by aquarists: wash the filter media in the water that you have removed from the aquarium with the gravel vacuum. Also, do not get the filter media pristinely clean! You want to keep the bacterial colonies that are living in it. If you vigorously clean it, you will be removing all of the nitrifying bacteria that are good for your aquarium. Some of you may want to argue that in the best situation, the bacterial colonies should be living in the aquarium, not in the filter media. This is true, but it is not a perfect world, and saving as much of the good bacteria as possible will only help. As you may have guessed, the frequency at which you should do the filter media cleaning is somewhat dependent on your water changes. It is not necessary to clean the filter media every time that you do a water change, but the filter media should be checked to make sure that it is still functioning. Clean it when needed.

Assuming that you have already been through the new aquarium cycle, and the biological components of your aquarium are in good shape, you should do chemical testing of the aquarium water between water changes. I recommend once a month. This should be done on a weekend that you are not doing any water changes. This will allow you to properly check the levels in your aquarium since they may momentarily change a little for a day or so during the water changes. Proper aquariums should have no ammonia and nitrite content and moderate to low nitrate levels. pH should also be in an acceptable range, or one should add buffer or do a water change to correct it. This holds true for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.

At this point, I hope I have at least given you a little bit of a better idea of what is meant by aquarium maintenance. Every aquarium is slightly different, and it is really hard to generalize the whole cleaning subject as I have done. There are many additional things that one may or may not need to do.

Aquarium Lighting for Planted & Reef Tanks


Aquarium lighting not only enhances the appearance of your aquarium, it also helps boost the general health of your fish, plants, and invertebrates. When choosing a lighting system for your aquarium, you should try to duplicate – as closely as possible – the conditions in which your aquarium pets would live naturally. Thankfully, technological advancements in aquarium lighting over the past decade have significantly simplified the task of simulating natural conditions. This two-part article will explain the characteristics of light and discuss the duplication of natural light in fish-only, freshwater planted and saltwater reef aquariums.

Freshwater Planted Aquarium Lighting

Before choosing led lighting for a planted tank visit FishTankSetups. Their guide is very in-depth and informative. Once you have chosen your plants, look for a lighting system that can effectively simulate the intensity and spectrum of light they receive naturally. Generally, you should provide between 2 and 5 watts per gallon depending on the species of plant you plan to keep. You will also need to consider initial and operating costs, and the heat generated by the lighting system.


Most of today’s freshwater aquatic plants originated in the shallow tributaries and rivers of Central and South America, where the natural water clarity was typically murky to stained. Because these plants are naturally accustomed to living in dirty shallow water in bright sunlight, you should provide a full spectrum range of light (5500 K to 7500 K) to simulate natural daylight. However, due to varied water qualities in their natural habitats, the light intensity required for freshwater plants will also vary. Between 2 and 5 watts per gallon should be adequate.

The initial and operating costs for lighting systems on freshwater plant aquariums depend on the type of system you select, as well as the type of ballast you use with your system. Keep in mind that an initially pricey system may save you money in the long run by using less electricity and requiring less frequent bulb changes. Also, when considering a lighting system for your freshwater plant aquarium, make sure that bulbs are available for that system in the proper spectrum range. Some lighting systems do not offer the full-spectrum bulbs ideal for freshwater planted aquariums. Power compact fluorescent and metal halide lighting systems with carefully selected bulbs work well for freshwater planted aquariums.

Further, lighting systems appropriate for a freshwater planted aquarium usually give off large amounts of heat. This must be addressed during system installation. You’ll most likely need to incorporate one or more cooling fans and possibly a water chiller to maintain proper water temperature in your aquarium. Room temperature can also have an effect on aquarium temperature, and must also be addressed during aquarium setup – be sure to place your aquarium in a room that does not experience temperature extremes (hot or cold), and a room that will not become excessively warm from the heat given off by the lighting system.

Lighting for Fish-only Aquariums

Lighting on a fish-only aquarium provides fish with a simulated day and night cycle necessary for overall health. However, since fish are non-photogenic organisms, light spectrum and intensity in a fish-only aquarium are not as vital to health as in a planted or reef aquarium. Therefore, the lighting system for a fish-only aquarium can be designed around other factors such as cost and aesthetics.

When selecting your fish-only aquarium lighting system, take into account not only the initial cost, but also the operating cost. Choose a lighting fixture that does not require excessive amounts of electricity or frequent bulb changes. When shopping for lamps for your fish-only aquarium, choose a bulb rated at two watts per gallon of water in your aquarium (for example, choose a 60-watt bulb for a 30-gallon aquarium). Due to their relatively low initial cost and operating costs, standard fluorescent systems or power compact fluorescent systems work well for fish-only aquariums.

Once you’ve selected your lighting system, you can choose a bulb with a spectrum based on your personal preference. A lamp with a low Kelvin (K) rating (towards the redder end of the spectrum) will exhibit more vivid colors than a lamp with a higher Kelvin rating (and a bluer color). However, lamps with a low K rating tend to promote algae growth, resulting in more aquarium maintenance. If your goal is to illuminate your aquarium with a color-enhancing bulb, you can avoid excessive algae growth either by using a liquid algae destroyer, or by decreasing the daily number of hours during which the light is on.

Lighting for Reef Tanks


Consider the types of corals and invertebrates you wish to keep before you choose a lighting system for your saltwater reef aquarium. Once you have selected your new pets, look for a lighting system that can effectively simulate the intensity and spectrum of light they receive naturally. You will also need to consider initial and operating costs, and the heat generated by the lighting system.

When choosing lighting for your aquarium, keep your inhabitants’ natural lighting conditions foremost in your mind. Budget for and select the necessary lighting components that will provide your new fish, plants, corals, or invertebrates with the spectrum and intensity of light they receive in their natural habitats. Successfully duplicating these conditions greatly increases both the survival and growth rate of these organisms, while giving you a beautiful, enjoyable aquarium.

Types of Aquarium Lighting

Aquarium lighting come in handy both ways by providing both a scientific and artistic touch to an aquarium’s environment. Here are the types available.


These are the same bulbs you use in your home. There are some incandescent bulbs used in inexpensive aquarium light fixtures for small freshwater aquariums. Incandescent bulbs use a tungsten filament which glows hot as voltage passes through it. Incandescent bulbs produce a lot of heat per watt of output, are inefficient and tend to burn out rapidly. Although there are some vivarium and terrarium applications for incandescent lighting, it is not recommend incandescent lighting for normal aquaria use.

Fluorescent Aquarium Lighting

The standard for aquarium lighting, fluorescent lamps are used in the majority of aquaria. Available in many sizes and color spectra, fluorescent lamps are ideal for fish-only aquariums and some freshwater live-plant applications. They are made from glass tubes, coated inside with rare-earth phosphors which are combined in various mixtures to produce different colors of light. A ballast (transformer) is used to reduce the voltage that is used to power the bulbs. The ends of the lamp are electrodes or filaments through which electricity passes from each end of the lamp. The electrical current excites the rare-earth phosphors inside the lamp which then “fluoresce” or glow.

Fluorescent lighting is very efficient compared to incandescent lighting. It produces more light per watt and far less heat and so is ideal for general aquarium use. We use and recommend regular fluorescent lighting in fish-only aquariums, in either single or multiple bulb configurations, depending on the height of the aquarium and application. Regular fluorescent bulbs should be changed every 8 to 12 months to maintain the same output and color spectra that benefit aquatic life.

VHO Fluorescent

VHO is short for “very high output.” These bulbs operate in the same way as regular fluorescent bulbs, except that the ballasts that power these lamps apply more electrical current to the lamp, and some brands of VHO lamps employ more phosphors in their operation. Typically, a VHO bulb produces twice the output in lumens as a regular fluorescent bulb. They also tend to burn twice as hot as regular fluorescents, although some new VHO electronic ballasts allow the lamp to operate at cooler temperatures. It has been our experience that VHO lamps seem to degrade faster than normal fluorescents in terms of a ratio of output in lux over time when measured underwater with a light meter. What is meant by this is that we have measured a faster reduction in intensity over time for VHO lamps compared to when the lamp was new than what we’ve measured for normal fluorescent lamps. We base our opinions on our observations. What we have observed is that in VHO-lit reef aquariums, some hard corals begin to close slightly and algae growth is insane after about four months. We change the bulbs, and the animals and algae spring back to life!

That simply doesn’t happen as often in the reef aquariums we maintain which use metal halide and/or Power Compact lamps. Therefore, for reef aquariums that employ VHO lamps, we recommend changing these bulbs two to three times a year in order to maintain the overall health of the environment. The other problem we have encountered with VHO lighting is that for some reason (we don’t know why), VHO lighting ballasts seem to fail more often than any other lighting ballast we’ve used, and we’ve used hundreds! This seems to be especially true of the newer, electronic ballasts that are being sold these days. We consider VHO lighting systems to be expensive in terms of bulb-replacement, and in our experience, subject to ballast failure. We do know that IceCap, a major manufacturer of VHO ballasts, has made great strides in developing electronic ballast technology that promises to considerably extend bulb life, so we haven’t given up completely on VHO. VHO still holds one advantage over their competitor, Power Compact lamps, in that the lamps distribute light better over a greater area.

Power Compact Fluorescent

In our opinion, Power Compact bulbs are one of the most valuable innovations in the
aquarium hobby in recent years. Power Compact bulbs consist of U-shaped fluorescent tubes that are almost half the diameter of a regular fluorescent bulb. They work the same way as a fluorescent tube but the surface area of the tube has been increased slightly and more phosphors added. They require more electricity than regular fluorescents but the payoff is huge! They produce nearly four times the light-output per watt than regular fluorescents and in our experience, degrade slower and last longer.

They come close to the output of metal halide bulbs with relatively-precise color temperature production, though metal halide bulbs produce a far broader spectrum range. They also produce much less heat than metal halide lamps. There is no question that metal halide lighting is still (and probably always will be) the mainstay of marine reef aquarium lighting. However, we have rarely seen a reef aquarium lit by metal halide bulbs that did not require a chiller for success, unless the aquarium was located in a cool room or was equipped with some form of major ventilation system.

Power Compact bulbs allow many photo-receptive species to be kept without the intense heat produced by halides. Research has shown that many stony corals, clams, and other sessile species that depend on photosynthesis of zooanthellic algae not only thrive but also propagate when maintained under PowerCompact lighting alone. This is our choice for many of our reef and all of our live-plant aquaria, especially when a chiller cannot be used. If a chiller can be used, however, we recommend metal halide lighting in combination with 7100K Power Compacts to help improve the color rendering.

PowerCompact lamps should be changed every 12 to 18 months, depending on how many hours they are on each day.

Metal Halide Lighting

In our opinion, metal halide lighting still represents the ultimate choice for marine reef aquariums, especially for sensitive hard corals. Metal halide bulbs look like incandescent bulbs but differ considerably in operation. Metal halide bulbs employ two tungsten filaments embedded in a quartz inner arc tube, spaced apart so when electricity passes through them, it forms an arc between the two.

The electrical discharge excites metallic halogen gases in the arc tube which glow quite brightly. Metal halide lamps produce an incredible amount of light. So much so that, like the sun, they should never be viewed directly. As previously mentioned, however, they have two major drawbacks. They (and the ballasts that power them) produce a lot of heat and use a lot of electricity.

They also distribute light over a relatively limited area, so that several bulbs may be required for longer tanks. Unless an aquarium equipped with metal halide lighting is kept in a cool room and adequate ventilation is used above the water’s surface, an aquarium chiller will be required to maintain a safe temperature for live-reef and live-plant tanks. Metal halide bulbs come in various color spectra, from 5500K to the new 10,000K and 20,000K lamps. We favor the 6500K lamps, in combination with 7100K PowerCompact lamps.

Although some would disagree with us and recommend the higher color-temperature lamps, we feel that the results do not justify the much greater cost of these lamps. We’ve tried all of them, and while the 10,000K and 20,000K lamps do produce a warmer appearance without the use of actinic lamps, we’ve seen no appreciable difference in the growth of corals in the reef aquariums in which we tested them (admittedly by using a simple “before and after” approach without any scientific method or controls).

Metal halide bulbs should be replaced every 8 to 12 months.

Acrylic Aquariums


First off, what’s acrylic?

Acrylic is a plastic made using one or more types of acrylic acid. Polymethyl Methacrylate acrylic, or PMMA, is one of the more widely used forms of acrylic because of its exceptional weather-ability, strength, clarity and versatility.

Why Acrylic Aquariums?

Acrylic aquariums are attractive because of their unique properties; clarity, strength, and versatility. However, they do require special care during cleaning.

To begin with all about establishing an acrylic aquarium, let us begin with support; always use a solid surface to support your acrylic aquarium. Use of a perimeter support stand will lead to sagging and undue pressure on the seams. Use of a perimeter stand will void your Tenecor Warranty. Talking about cleaners; do not use any product which contains Ammonia, Alcohol, or Abrasives, such as Windex, Comet, Ajax, or other commercial cleaners when cleaning an acrylic aquarium. Use of such cleaners will cause the acrylic to permanently lose its clarity. A soft cloth and water, or a polish made specifically for acrylic, should be used for cleaning.

You should take care to not to expose acrylic to paints, varnishes, turpentine, or their fumes. Exposure to these chemicals will cause crazing and loss of clarity. For regular maintenance it is recommend cleaners that are specifically designed for acrylic, such as Novus and Plexus. Many other cleaners contain chemicals which will penetrate the pores in acrylic and cause damage which shows as fine lines or haziness. Plexus aids in the removal of fine scratches and abrasions and will actually help protect the acrylic from accidental exposure to harmful chemicals.

Cleaning Aquariums With Bleach

On occasions where a complete cleaning is required, such as a change from saltwater aquariums to freshwater fish tanks or after prolonged storage, the use of chlorine bleach can be very effective. A half gallon of bleach mixed with 20 gallons of water or more is great for sterilization and is perfectly safe for acrylic.

Polishing Clothes & Sponges

Acrylic should always be cleaned with a good quality soft cloth. Special polishing clothes are available at your local hardware or automotive stores and are the best guarantee of a lasting finish. As a substitute, a soft cotton cloth or high grade paper towel can be used occasionally. Do not use commercial grade paper towels or newsprint.

You should not use coarse sponges or pads to clean acrylic aquariums. If you do use a sponge or pad, make sure it’s designed for use with acrylic aquariums.

Removing Calcareous Algae and Diatoms

Some aquarium growths, such as calcareous algae and diatoms, are very hard and can be difficult to remove with standard cleaning pads. Simply use a plastic card such as a credit card, driver’s license, or plastic putty knife to scrape growths from the acrylic. Using the edge will transfer more pressure to the growth, reducing the work, and because the card is still relatively soft it won’t damage the acrylic. Several scrapers designed specifically for use with acrylic aquariums are now commercially available.

So, acrylic aquariums thus could always remain your eye catching beautiful stuff with strength no doubt.

Building Your Own Acrylic Aquarium

Aquarium Driftwood – Your Aquarium Fishes First Love


aquarium-driftwoodA driftwood is a “Wood floating in or washed up by a body of water”. Fish love natural driftwood. As soon as the centerpiece is introduced into the aquarium the fish will go to the wood. Fish that normally stay close to the bottom will begin swimming in the middle and upper levels of the tank.

Natural driftwood pieces for aquarium use comes in various sizes and no two items are the same. These mangrove hardwood are usually found floating near Ocean shoreline south of Philippines. Cured by Ocean water for decades these are the perfect natural habitat for fish in your aquarium. Unlike other artificial driftwood which takes it shape from this natural driftwood we carry, this product has a natural color and perfect for saltwater applications where they are mostly found so ph levels of aquariums are still maintained.

Types of Driftwood

There are several driftwoods in use. Some types of driftwood mainly used:

Asian Driftwood: A favorite for aquariums & terrariums, they are self-sinking and will not discolor water.

Asian Driftwood (Small): These are the smallest Asian Driftwood pieces. Average between 5-9″.

Caribbean Driftwood: Gorgeous new stock.  Lighter than Asian or Florida Driftwood. It has no tannins to it cannot discolor water. Smaller pieces may require mild boiling to sink. Tends to be very smooth. A favorite of Dart Frog and Terrarium enthusiasts.

Planted Driftwood: African driftwood pieces with java fern, java moss or Anubias nana growing atop. Absolutely beautiful! Buy a single, a trio or a six piece set.

Branchy: Gorgeous driftwood from the Florida coast, these are also self-sinking and will not foul your aquarium. They are by far the most attractive pieces of Aquarium Driftwood sold anywhere and also the most RARE. What you see is what you get.

Stump: More Gorgeous driftwood from the Florida coast. Very rare and unique. The piece you see is what you get.

Assortment Kits: Driftwood assortments ranging from 5-17″. These are not necessarily the exact pieces shown. Assortments are purchases sight unseen.

Driftwood has a tendency to leach out a little tannin, causing the water to be tinted a light brown color. Just like in the Amazon River. This will usually clear up in time after a few water changes. It’s no big deal. And some driftwood will cause a slight lowering of the pH. This is certainly no problem in a plant tank or in any tank inhabited by acid loving fish such as Angelfish, Tetras, and Barbs etc.

Without proper preparation of your driftwood and understanding the water requirements of your fish, driftwood can do more harm than good. But when properly prepared, driftwood can be a wonderful addition to your tank and make you look like an expert aquascaper!

Decorating Your Aquarium


Aquarium decoration make aquariums a drawing room; also decorating and designing an aquarium is like designing a fantasy landscape. Marbles create a light catching, eye catching delightful atmosphere while adding color and elegance. Special ornaments shaped like animals, sea creatures, and caves add a realistic model of places around the world. Adding synthetic plants makes your fish tank more accepted by your fish while providing them with a place to hide and sleep. Aquarium plants add beauty and realism to your fish tank.

Ethical Spot Fiber Optic Light Tunnel futuristic aquarium ornament creates amazing lighting effects in your aquarium without an additional power source! Totally safe, lights attract fish while ornament offers security and stimulation. Provides a beautiful underwater fantasy landscape in your aquarium. Mounts under your aquarium’s existing light hood.

Decorating your aquarium provides both benefits for you & for the fish. First of all, a fully decorated aquarium looks GREAT in any room in your household. Secondly, many fish are territorial, & rock formations along with plants & a variety of other decorations will provide needed territorial landmarks & boundaries. Also, smaller fish may need a place to hide when escaping larger species, a place of refuge in small nooks provided by rock formations. Decorations also provide shade for species of fish which may require darker areas.

A “stock” tank usually consists of low to very low light. Anything from. 5 wpg to 1. 5 wpg. (To figure out your Watts Per Gallon, take the total wattage of all the bulbs over your tank and divide by the gallons in the tank) In these conditions you will be limited in the plants that you can keep. No fancy colors, no rapid growth and nothing too unusual. Plants that usually not only tolerate, but can grow to some degree in these conditions include:

  • Java moss
  • Java fern
  • Lace Java fern
  • Narrow leaf Java fern
  • Most of the Cryptocoryne sp.
  • Most of the Anubias sp.
  • Guppy grass
  • Hornwort

Not all decorations are suitable for freshwater aquariums. Coral, seashells, limestone & marble will dissolve in freshwater & may increase the pH to unacceptable levels. Galvanized metals, copper objects, or steel can cause heavy metal poisoning, especially in areas where the pH is on the acid side of neutral, & the water is soft. If you wish to use any rocks, driftwood or gravel taken from natural streams or ponds, they should be soaked in a diluted solution of chlorine bleach & water, then rinsed with fresh water, soaked in fresh water, & rinsed again. This will avoid the introduction of snails, or other unwanted invertebrates & free-living nematodes.

Using a background behind the aquarium serves to the beauty of the tank as well as to create the darker areas preferred by shy species of fish. It will cover up the unwanted look of hanging wires & filters etc. so the look you are trying to achieve will be more natural & beautiful.

Saltwater Fish Tanks – The Real World Aquariums


The first decision that should be made when considering setting up a saltwater tank is what type of livestock the aquarist intends to keep. Everything else, including filtration, lighting, chemistry and overall expense are largely determined by the answer to this first question.

Just as getting a dog or a cat will change your daily routine, getting a saltwater aquarium will alter your life. For example, you’ll need to make arrangements for care while you are away. Depending on the length of your stay, this can range from asking a friend to come in and feed the fish to hiring a professional maintenance service to cover an extended trip. On the other hand, fish don’t need to be taken out for a walk, paper trained, or taken to the vet for shots. They don’t bark at night or dig in your neighbor’s flower beds.

Some fish will learn to recognize your approach at feeding time, but they won’t bounce around joyfully, obviously thrilled that you’re home from work. Watching an aquarium can soothe jangled nerves and provide a sense of accomplishment not unlike that artists feel toward their creations, but if you are looking for companionship, you won’t find it in an aquarium.

Saltwater Tank Maintenance

To keep your saltwater inhabitants healthy and happy, saltwater aquariums require regular and consistent maintenance. The time required to maintain your aquarium depends on the size of the tank.

Click here to read an article regarding common mistakes when setting up an aquarium.

banggai cardinalSaltwater/Marine fish and invertebrates propose a challenge, as they are sensitive to environmental changes. The temperature, salinity, ammonia, nitrate, nitrate, and most importantly – the pH – must be kept at appropriate levels. Despite the care required, the vast array of colorful saltwater fish more than compensates for the extra effort required and their higher price tag. They can have a lot of company in the tank. Saltwater offers a host of invertebrates such as eels, clams, crabs, corals, and starfish. Marine plants, conversely, are difficult to harvest and are also pricier than their freshwater equivalent

The differences between freshwater and saltwater systems aren’t limited to tank’s inhabitants. The equipment needed for their survival varies as well. Marine aquariums are generally more expensive than freshwater tanks, but your costs drop slightly if you opt for a fish-only system.

Average Time Commitments

Following are the time commitments you need to make for small-, medium-, and large-size aquariums:

* For a 30-gallon tank, plan to spend 4 hours for weekly maintenance and 4 hours for
monthly maintenance.

* For a 75-gallon tank, plan to spend 6 hours for weekly maintenance and 6 hours for
monthly maintenance.

* For a 150-gallon tank, plan to spend 8 hours for weekly maintenance and 8 hours for
monthly maintenance.

What is an Aquarium?


An aquarium is a water-filled tank, usually with glass sides, in which aquatic plants and animals, particularly fish, are kept. The term is applied to single tanks for home use in which fish are kept for their decorative effect and interesting habits and to public institutions with tanks for exhibition and scientific study of aquatic life.

Home aquariums are often made to simulate a natural environment. Aquatic plants supply the oxygen needed by the fish, but often an aerating device is used to furnish additional oxygen. Goldfish enjoy cool water, but the popular tropical fish must have water at a constant temperature of 22 degrees C (72 degrees F) or more.

Aquarium keeping is a popular hobby around the world, with about 60 million enthusiasts worldwide. A wide variety of aquaria are now kept by hobbyists, ranging from a simple bowl housing a single fish to complex simulated ecosystems with carefully engineered support systems.

The careful aquarist dedicates considerable effort to maintaining a tank ecology that mimics its inhabitants’ natural habitat. Controlling water quality includes managing the inflow and outflow of nutrients, most notably the management of waste produced by tank inhabitants. The nitrogen cycle describes the flow of nitrogen from input via food, through toxic nitrogenous waste produced by tank inhabitants, to metabolism to less toxic compounds by beneficial bacteria populations. Other components in maintaining a suitable aquarium environment include appropriate species selection, management of biological loading, and good physical design.

The first scientific and popular aquarium was erected in the London Zoological Gardens in 1853; it was closed shortly afterward, and a new one was not erected until 1924. Other large European aquariums were built in Plymouth, England; Paris and Nice, France; Naples; and Berlin; all but the last survived World War II. Marineland, near Saint Augustine, Florida, represented a new trend in public aquarium architecture when it opened in 1938. Since then, most new aquariums, often called oceanariums or seaquariums, have been located on the ocean or on a bay or river and feature outdoor pools and aquatic environments with clear acrylic windows and portholes that enable visitors to see large and small fish and other marine life from below the water surface.

Among the famous public aquariums in the United States are the Steinhart Aquarium in San Francisco, the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago, the New England Aquarium in Boston, and the Aquarium for Wildlife Conservation in Coney Island, Brooklyn, New York, at which the Osborne Laboratories of Marine Sciences are located.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing an Aquarium


A beautiful aquarium with attractive fish looks stylish. You can transform any place into a very special site. Visitors also feel very nice and peaceful after watching the different activities of the aquarium. You can also install decorative items in it to enhance the attractiveness. But there are many things that you should consider first at the time of setting up a fish tank. You should try your best to avoid major mistake while installing an aquarium at your place. There is no doubt that everyone has different space in which they want to install the aquarium. You should also think about the size of a tank of the aquarium that you are going to buy. You should determine the size according to the available space and number of fish that you are going to put in that particular aquarium.

Lovers of aquarium and fish keepers should take care of the basic things to avoid any kind of unwanted problems. Here we are going to discuss some of the major mistakes that you should avoid.

Common mistakes that new aquarium lovers do


  • Not everyone has enough space to put a large size aquarium. In case you are also planning to install a new aquarium, consider first who much space you can arrange for it. Never forget the fact that there are lots of things to do with it like changing water, maintenance and much more for which you need space.
  • Neglecting the valuable tips of professional and experienced person is also the biggest mistake which people do often. People who usually sell aquarium have a great experience. You should discuss the space, type of fish, number of fish and your requirement. They have experience of years. For the safer size never neglect their advice.
  • Putting fish in excessive quantity and installing extra decorative items is the next mistake. You should put fish only according to the water storage capacity of the aquarium.
  • Keeping the fish which can grow faster and get large size is the biggest blunder. After some time they can create inconvenience for other aquarium mates. They also reduce more wastage in the water and pollute it.
  • Doing addition of fish that are not compatible with each other is incorrect. Such fish can eat each other and kill other fish. This can distort the harmony of your aquarium and you may lose much fish.
  • Installing filter which is not sufficient for water volume of the aquarium is a very common mistake which people do. You should always check the details about the capacity of the filter and then install it according to size and water storage capacity of your aquarium.
  • Negligence of maintenance of aquarium is dangerous. Fish are very sensitive and aquariums have to be kept in good condition. Ignorance can cause serious trouble. Fish can get sick or die in the poor water condition of the aquarium. Install proper equipment for this.
  • Avoidance for water testing constraint is not good for the health of fish. You should keep checking the PH level in the water to make sure that fish are getting an only good supply of water.

Go Slow and Stay Calm

Frequently changing the structure of aquarium is not good for an aquarium. Some fish are very shy in some hours of the day. They need their space to hide during these hours. So never change space frequently and allow them to make themselves comfortable with their artificial habitat. You should never get hesitate to or make haste while dealing with the aquarium at any time.